The Chronomètre FB RSM reinterprets the architecture and design of the Marine Clock no. 8 produced by the master clockmaker in Paris in 1768. Only 20 movements will be produced, and several key exterior elements can be chosen by the collector. They may be fitted inside a round or octagonal case. The FB 2RSM.1 with a round case in 18-carat white gold and a satin-finished 18-carat gold dial with blue CVD treatment is one of the variations offered by the manufacture.

The FB-T.FC-RSM calibre features a pillar-type architecture, in which both the barrel and the inverted fusee are suspended and patented. His mechanism ensures the distribution of energy by delivering ‘constant force’ to the patented tourbillon with direct-drive seconds. The creation of a deadbeat seconds mechanism is a major challenge for any watch that claims to earn chronometer certification. Since the regularity of the torque is the essence of a constant-force calibre, interrupting its flow 60 times a minute without compromising its linearity is a true technical feat – which is why the majority of deadbeat seconds movements fail to achieve COSC certification.

THIS REGULATOR-TYPE CHRONOMETER MOVEMENT WITH TOURBILLON AND FUSEE-AND-CHAIN TRANSMISSION IS THE RESULT OF COMPREHENSIVE TECHNICAL AND AESTHETIC DEVELOPMENT AND IS INSPIRED BY MARINE CLOCK NO. 8, PRODUCED BY THE MASTER-WATCHMAKER IN PARIS IN 1768. THE DIAL IN BLACK PVD NICKEL SILVER IS DECORATED WITH VERTICAL SATIN-BRUSHED AND SANDBLASTED FINISHES AND OFFERS THREE OPENINGS: THE HOURS AT 2 O’CLOCK, THE MINUTES AT 12 O’CLOCK AND THE POWER RESERVE AT 10 O’CLOCK. THE PRODUCTION OF THIS MOVEMENT WILL BE STRICTLY LIMITED TO 20 IN ALL WHERE THE CHOICE OF WATCH EXTERIOR WILL BE LEFT TO THE COLLECTOR. THE FB 1RS.6 WITH AN ROND CASE IN ROSE GOLD IS ONE OF THE VARIATIONS OFFERED BY THE MANUFACTURE.

The Chronomètre FB 2T – Final Edition presents for the first time the tourbillon movement with fusee-and-chain transmission in a round case. The exterior of these final 38 examples of this calibre can be customizable, offering the collector the opportunity to choose the case material as well as the colour of the dial or the hands. The reference FB 2T.2-1 is equipped with an 18-carat rose gold with a ruthenium satin-brushed dial.

Calibre FB-T.FC-2 is distinguished by three bevelled and engraved sapphire half-bridges, supported by polished steel pillars providing a chance to admire the movement’s main organs, as well as an understated hand-sandblasted finish resulting in a particularly modern appearance. Positioned at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon carriage engages directly with the seconds (fourth) wheel thanks to a wheel located on its axis whose diameter and properties are identical to those of the seconds. The two wheels thus make a complete rotation in 60 seconds: the seconds (fourth) wheel in a clockwise direction and the tourbillon wheel counter-clockwise.

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC draws its stylistic, technical and aesthetic inspiration from a rare and exceptional creation, the No. 26 decimal watch, made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud. Calibre FB-SPC is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality. It is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers. The FB 3SPC.1, one of the two versions available, is equipped with an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.

Appearing at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance-spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole created in the case middle. Its round case, available in 18-carat white or rose gold, recalls the curves of pocket watches from the early 19th century, such as the decimal watch No. 26, made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud and now on display within the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier. The mainplate is placed at the heart of Calibre FB-SPC and the components are assembled on either side of it. On the dial side, a close-knit array of six bridges traces curves and lines directly inspired by the work of Louis Berthoud. They are echoed on the back by ten other bridges forming an intimately juxtaposed mosaic.

Inspired by the Marine Chronometer No. 7 that Ferdinand Berthoud produced in 1767, the construction and the regulator-type display of the FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1R.6-1 chronometer overturn traditions. Composed of the rear side of the black rhodium-plated nickel silver regulator plate adorned with straight-grained lines, the dial features three openings: one for the hours (at 2 o’clock), another for the minutes (at 12 o’clock) and a third for the power reserve (at 10 o’clock).

The FB-T.FC.R calibre, with its pillar-type architecture, features a direct-drive centre seconds tourbillon whose constant force is provided by a fusee-and-chain transmission mechanism incorporating a satellite differential gear and Malte Cross stopwork device. Continuing the tradition of precision inherited from Ferdinand Berthoud, this COSC-certified timepiece is available as a 20-piece limited edition in carburised steel.

The case of the Chronomètre FB 2RE picks up the shape of these Marine Clocks and this modular construction. The movement is installed in a cylindrical container made of 18-carat gold and water-resistant to 30 metres. Short, tapering all-of-piece lugs are solidly secured to the case by stylised bolts and ensure the Chronomètre FB 2RE smoothly moulds the contours of the wrist. In order to facilitate reading off the hours and minutes during sea voyages, Ferdinand Berthoud had designed a two-tiered dial with two types of graduations for his Marine Clock No. 6: in the centre, the hours indications in Roman numerals stand out from the minutes circle in Arabic numerals appearing on the circumference.The FB-RE.FC calibre is one of the rare examples to feature fusee-and-chain transmission, serving to ensure constant force for the escapement. It acts like an infinitely variable automatic reduction gearbox.Exceptionally, the FB-RE.FC calibre, in addition to the constant-force mechanism, is equipped with a one-second remontoire visible on the back of the movement. It is one of the most complex torque regulation systems in the history of time measurement.

The escape-wheel pinion is connected to the stop wheel and marks off the seconds. The entire assembly is connected to the central seconds hand and enables the Chronomètre FB 2RE to display true seconds, or deadbeat seconds, like marine chronometers or regulator-type longcase clocks. To enhance the accuracy of the display, the connection between the escapement pinion and the deadbeat seconds hand is achieved by means of a special deadbeat seconds mechanism.

Lighter system
The remontoire is traditionally very energy-intensive, particularly because of the friction it generates. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has reduced this friction by installing the remontoire where the torque is lowest. The escape wheel is the one that receives the least force from the entire gearing and is therefore the best candidate for the position. In addition, the use of the ruby cam and an extremely light seconds hand (0.01 grams), thanks to the use of titanium and an extremely tapered shape, reduces the weight driven by the remontoire.
All these decisions together enable the FB-RE.FC calibre to offer a power reserve of 50 hours. This is indicated on the back of the movement by means of a blued arrow-shaped hand placed on a sector engraved on the mainplate. The barrel stores energy for several more hours, but the stopwork system blocks it outside the guaranteed precision timekeeping (chronometry) range.

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC draws its stylistic, technical and aesthetic inspiration from a rare and exceptional creation, the No. 26 decimal watch, made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud. Calibre FB-SPC is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality. It is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers. The FB 3SPC.1, one of the two versions available, is equipped with an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.

Appearing at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance-spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole created in the case middle. Its round case, available in 18-carat white or rose gold, recalls the curves of pocket watches from the early 19th century, such as the decimal watch No. 26, made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud and now on display within the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier. The mainplate is placed at the heart of Calibre FB-SPC and the components are assembled on either side of it. On the dial side, a close-knit array of six bridges traces curves and lines directly inspired by the work of Louis Berthoud. They are echoed on the back by ten other bridges forming an intimately juxtaposed mosaic.

Issued in an exclusive 50-piece series, the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.1 is the first model in the collection. Its vertical satin-brushed ruthenium dial is framed by an octagonal white gold case with a black titanium inter-horn space. Its sides feature four watertight portholes revealing the intricate workings of Calibre FB-T.FC with its pillar-type architecture. The transparent sapphire case-back provides a chance to admire the 1,120-part tourbillon movement with fusee-and-chain transmission. Four patent applications have been filed for certain mechanisms of this COSC-certified movement.

Both contemporary and technical, this exceptional model reinterprets the mechanical prowess and extreme precision of the Marine Chronometers that Ferdinand Berthoud produced in the 18th century for the French King and Navy.